Shah-i-Zinda necropolis: the living king's alley

Shah-i-Zinda ("the living king") is named for Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad said to have been martyred on this hill in the 7th century and, in local legend, to remain alive underground.

Pilgrims climb the 36 stairs at the entrance — tradition says if your count going up matches your count coming down, your sins are forgiven.

Along the ~150-metre alley, twenty tomb portals face each other in an intense concentration of majolica and mosaic tile. Most of the mausolea date to Timur's court (late 14th to early 15th century) and house his relatives and generals. Notable stops include:

• Shodi Mulk Oko — Timur's niece's tomb, with some of the earliest and finest Kashi tilework in Central Asia.
• Emir Zade — geometric star-patterned portal.
• Qusam ibn Abbas complex — the pilgrimage focus at the top.

Best visited in early morning for soft light and few crowds. Modest dress required.